One good (little) tern deserves another, and another, and another…

How did Teesside’s little tern colony go from 3 successful fledglings in 2021, to 141 survivors in 2024? A case study in positive human intervention, dedication and persistence…

“That’s a nice lift” says Tony, as the adult slice upwards from their invisible nests among the sandy shingle at the southernmost end of Seaton Carew beach. A regular volunteer watching over the terns, he loves the way they barrel roll so their bellies catch the sun bright white, then suddenly flip their pale grey backs towards us so that against the blue-grey haze of the horizon the birds disappear.

They are a constant magic trick. Although I can hear their little raspy screeches before I even get out of the car, they are only easily visible when in motion, and they drop into rest on their nests like flipping the switch on a cloaking mechanism.

Today is a finer day than when I last came, bundled up against a sudden wind-harried drop in May’s temperature. On that day everything was grey, and the male terns were spending every ounce of their energy on constant forays to the tide for sand eels. For a courting tern, nothing says “have chicks with me” like a beakful of silvery sand eel. The warden that day, Emma, told me that the eel numbers seemed good and that mating was taking place all over the strand. Occasional flappings of raised wings like little white flares in all the grey showed me where breeding pairs were getting down to business. A month later and the same brief flashings of wing-white erupt where birds land and settle on their shallow scrapes – an estimated 80 nests – where both eggs and chicks are now present.

Colin volunteers to show me a chick through the huge tripod scope set up on the promenade for curious passers-by to learn more about this protected site. I’m looking at the fluffball for a good 20 seconds before I even see it, the speckled, sandy camouflage markings are so successful. More chicks hunker under one of the half-pipe ridge tiles laid out across the site as emergency shelters, looking like a clumpy sand-drift. Only movement gives them away; living as they do under a panopticon sky full of predatory larger gulls and hungry kestrels, their natural instinct is to stay very, very still.

The Tees Valley Wildlife Trust looks after this site, working together with Durham Wildlife Trust, which protected this tern colony when it was breeding north of here at Crimdon. Tony tells me how they migrate here in April from the Gambia, looking for shingle beaches and spits to inhabit. He waits for their arrival, and feel properly ’empty nest’ when they leave again.

Tidal activity being what it is, those shingles the terns seek can change their topography year on year, or disappear completely, and even during the course of a breeding season the colony can get washed out by high tides and storms – so the birds are flexible about where exactly they settle. When the colony started to fail in Crimdon, they moved south to Seaton. This year’s colony has been joined later in the season by birds believed to have been washed out of their first nests at Long Nanny near Beadnell.

The warden on duty today, Derek, tells me that in the six years this site has been active, the local people have taken it to heart. Teessiders have always pitched in to help protect the terns, whose eggs are so vulnerable to predators and accidental damage, and who will simply leave their nests to die if disturbed by humans. In volunteering to go on watch, I’m following in my mother’s footsteps – she watched them at weekends in the 1980s, when their breeding site was over the other side of the Tees mouth in South Gare.

Having a warden and volunteers is a huge part of the success story that has seen fledgings increase exponentially at Seaton. From 2021 to 2022, the jump in chick numbers surviving to migration stage was 3 to 89! What changed? The Trust got funding for a fence. A simple fence. Split cedar pales hammered into the sand to warn off dog-walkers, information signage, and paid wardens with the back up of dedicated and knowledgeable volunteers who can explain and engage. The global population of little terns is classified by the IUCN as ‘of least concern’, despite their acknowledgement of a 30% decrease in overall populations in the last decade – like every species, they definitely need protecting now, as rising sea levels and increased storm severity will undoubtedly make their survival difficult in the decades to come.

As I’m standing at the promenade wall, sketching the scene, a young lad jumps up onto the wall and is quickly warned down by Derek. But it’s not Derek’s style to be punitive, that gets you nowhere. Instead he always makes a point to talk with people encroaching on to the site, and in no time he has the whole family chatting, observing nests, and checking out the chicks through the scope. I talk to the mother and the younger sister, who are entranced by the fluffy babies and had no idea the birds came here every year. It’s excellent to pass on the little bit of information I’ve learned, tentatively trying to forge another link in the chain of connection between humans and nature. It’s a small start towards finding my own way to act as a custodian and a good ancestor.

If you’d like to do something positive, meaningful and sustainable about nature, biodiversity and climate, you should absolutely start by giving what you can (membership, donations, volunteering) to the organisations already on the ground, doing the work. That could be a global charity or your local wildlife trust.

For my fellow Teesside readers, please if you can, become a member of the Tees Valley Wildlife Trust and consider becoming a volunteer warden. If that’s not possible right now, check out other ways you can benefit from the Trust’s amazing work, for example by visiting one of their reserves or taking part in their 30 Days Wild challenge with the family.

A tendency to elegy: climate walk-and-talk with poets

Last week I was joined in my climate emergency drop-in by my wonderful friend and fellow poet Jo Colley. Together we explored Portrack Marshes managed by the Tees Wildlife Trust, an area of crucial reedbeds and open water just the other side of the embankment from the manicured whitewater runs and jogging paths of the Tees Barrage.

Reedbeds and marshes, along with salt creeks like the one that has been restored at Greatham, are essential to the flood resilience of the Tees riverway as extreme weather events become the norm and sea levels push upwards from Teesmouth. I was conference poet at the launch of the Tidelands partnership last year, a multi-agency project to protect and restore habitats like these which provide a place for flooding to run off safely, to be reabsorbed into the river system with minimal damage to human infrastructure – and preserve biodiversity in the meantime.

Susurrating marsh soughs seed-head rush-hush
shiver-silver the open pannes of water standing
shining among the signing stems of Portrack’s
sun-struck panoply with its scattering of warblers.

You can read my full conference poem at the end of this blog…

Jo and I have spoken before about climate collapse and our feelings around it, which are often feelings of grief, panic, anger and impotence. As poets we realised we have something of a tendency to elegy! We’ve both lived long enough to notice the absences, the gaps where the birds should be flitting, the silences where the insects should be humming. People growing up now won’t notice there’s anything out of the ordinary, they have nothing to compare it with, any more that we can fully credit C19th accounts of the mouth of the Tees literally boiling with the abundance of fish. It’s called a shifting baseline, and its one way in which we collectively forget, deny, or protect ourselves from the truth of ecological erosion.

Because the truth of it is overwhelming, and extremely hard to handle without sinking under the weight of it or else disconnecting into distraction and denial. As Jo and I walked, our conversation ranged from thoughts about how genocide and ecocide are dark twins born from the worst human drives; how political systems are stacked against urgent, rapid, change; how the free market will kill us all; how Trump really is The Last Trump for all kinds of hopes.

We also saw white egrets and serene herons, families of long-tailed tits and winter sun backlighting frothy reed-heads and exploded bullrushes. We saw pollution, but praised the “ugly” edgelands where we leave nature alone rather than spend effort and money on “improving” it. We tried to imagine what the genius loci of this place would look and sound like, and what it would take for us to be motivated for the fight by a sacred relationship with our land the way indigenous land-defenders are. We moved in the sunlight, enjoying the rightness of the chill in the November air, and as we moved our thoughts and emotions flowed with us.

Helpful thoughts and commitments to ourselves:

  1. When we think deeply about nature, we will walk in nature – movement helps us process, and being outside gives us a floodplain to contain unexpectedly big emotions.
  2. We will notice beauty – anywhere it appears, in however small a detail or embattled a location, and we will praise it.
  3. We will take strength from what we’ve already done – when looking for more ways to help the planet and adapt to climate change, we will not start by berating ourselves and nagging ourselves and others into despair; instead we will acknowledge and share the choices we’ve made to green our lives, in the hopes it will inspire others and lend energy to our resolve. A low-consumption lifestyle is not actually a hardship!
  4. We will practice hopefulness – and we will persist in making sustainable changes to behaviours and choices that are within our gift.

Some things we and our loved ones already do – how about you? Give me more ideas in the comments!

  1. Eating veggie/vegan – all the time, or increasing to most of the time
  2. Only buying second-hand clothes
  3. Only buying reconditioned electronic devices
  4. Buying dry groceries from refill shops whenever possible
  5. Repairing rather than replacing laptops – I use Kingfisher in Hartlepool
  6. Freecycle – and sometimes skip-diving 🙂
  7. Walking and cycling everywhere locally – on second-hand and refurbished bikes!
  8. Sharing a car
  9. Taking public transport whenever possible
  10. Slow travel for holidays abroad – no more flying
  11. Not buying food with lots of plastic packaging, especially veg
  12. Buying from farmers’ markets (seasonal veg, low food miles)
  13. Subscription donations to Tees Wildlife Trust, RSPB, WWF and Greenpeace
  14. Joining beach cleans and local pond conservation groups
  15. Investing in a forever-pen, a refillable fountain pen to replace all those disposable biros
  16. Switching to coconut fibre pan scourers
  17. Making my own recycled paper and junk journals for notebooks
  18. Being a “tree-mother” raising saplings for re-foresting initiatives
  19. Becoming a Futurenaut for DigVentures, a citizen scientist helping to map habitats for baseline surveys
  20. Making a Declaration of Climate Emergency with Culture Declares

Our next action – Cloud Cleanse:

A common thread in my last two drop-ins have been conversations around the environmental impact of server farms, AI, and the ecological weight of the internet generally. We don’t want to use fossil-fuel-generated electricity and precious water just to keep a bunch of random photos alive on the Cloud. So our next small, sustainable change is:

Setting a monthly standing appointment to download and/or delete our videos, photos, and old emails.

I’ll be spending some of my time at this Thursday’s drop-in doing a digital clear-out, and if you’d like to join me for a chat while we clean the Cloud please do! I’ll be downstairs in ARC Stockton cafe from 2-4pm.

Tidelands
Written for the launch of the Tees Tidelands Partnership, 9/11/23

Prologue

Those of us who live at the edge, we know
how water breathes, hour to hour and moon to moon,
how the sea drags her swollen belly around the clock, around the planet,
how she presses it into the river’s mouth.
Season to season, we watch as placid sapphire
is chased away by furious greys, and we say
those are winter waves
as storms spit the wrack line up on to the coast road
and take another chomp out of the Prom.
We know the sea will come.

Humans, when we feel a push, our instinct is – resist!
Blockade, force, and dominate whatever suits itself ahead of us.
(The shadow of bold conquerors hides fear and disgust -
unruly nature! Disobedient water!)
200 years, we’ve broken these “waste-lands” to industry’s bridle.
Drain, constrain, reclaim; always a tussle for territory,
a concept so entrenched that barricades once seemed common sense -
build high and hard the flood defense!
What we can’t control must be a threat,
lace tight the river’s corset, never let loose the tourniquet!

Stand your ground – but estuarine grounds should not stay still.
Better that silts should shift than baselines -
our new normals, denatured and denuded,
squeezing memories of abundance back in time
until true tales of delta waters boiling with fish
appear to us as fantastical myths.

200 years under carbonized, tatterdemalion smokestack skies,
fingers deep in money pies, and pride, and livelihoods
prospering without heed for the need of carbon sequestering snugly in the mud
of Greatham’s meanders…
Well, we raised that Lazarus creek.
We’ve turned back toxic tides before.
We can and must do more…

1. Restore

From the Amoco pipeline to Majuba Road
Wildflowers grow in their poor, perfect homes restharrow, black medick
Their names a natural poem
spike rush, milkwort, melitot
Enough forgotten to sound now arcane
creeping thistle, biting stonecrop,
Tenacity. Vulnerability, What’s in a name?

We call them for their colours red clover, white campion
yellow rattle, that root-starves

the bullying grass holds space
for even smaller jewels sea mouse-ear – miniscule!

So many speak of animals cats-ear, toadflax, fleabane

So many speak of niche marsh orchid, hedge bedstraw

Flora-fauna-habitat a tangle of vivid nomenclature
given when we knew their characters,
observed affinities.

We must restore ourselves
to patient knowledge passed on in a chain un-sundered
forged in fresh air, away from desk and test sun, wind, rain
a schooling spoken shown
and known as children’s stories are heart-known
We must restore paths connect
our unhindered spaces, and walk green corridors
with our eyes open together

2. Reconnect

Susurrating marsh soughs seed-head rush-hush
shiver-silver the open pannes of water standing
shining among the signing stems of Portrack’s
sun-struck panoply with its scattering of warblers.

White flames the egret,
scarlet flares the dragonfly,

and shhhhh – shhhhhh

Underneath the reed-roots sleep, holding fast
to the memory of sea, like a dream they once had
of their mother.

part salt part sweet part water part land

This is an orphaned place.

When century storms surge and inundate
the surface rises, a spectacular drowning,
becomes a kettled lake, denied egress –

Long ago, we cut the umbilicus.

And so it saturates under circumstances
that can only keep repeating, until
all becomes brackish beyond the bounds of life,
but for we
who can see where withered tributaries
may be honoured into revival
may be connected to our own survival.

3. Realign

We’re all trying for a win-win
Tide goes out, tide comes in

Is welcomed into arms of marsh
The wash, the swash, the back and forth

Resistance is – pretty useless
To be soft is true resilience

Praise the hawthorn saplings, they promise rebalance
But please don’t nick our coir rolls, thanks

We’re going for 20:80 effort to result – smart!
Looks like 80% science, 20% weird land art

I’m here for it! Never too late
to breed breakwaters that self-replicate

It’s polytunnels now for future forests of seagrass
It’s threading more salmon through a better fish-pass

It’s keyhole surgery, it’s controlled breaches
It’s a river running freely to its natural reaches

On haul-outs grey seals dream of more eels
Ghost islands lurk inside our fields

Stand now, shoulder to shoulder to shoulder
This project’s new – the flood plain’s older…

Epilogue

And we know, those of us here at the edge,
we know the sea is coming,
and climate change won’t listen to a cabinet of Canutes.
But we will not stand mute.
We are not a lone voice, and this is not wilderness but treasure –
the tidelands are our lands.
It will be the work of our hands
to bring them back to fullness, together.